FTN.5 300 Blackout Suppressor

READ THE ENTIRE DESCRIPTION AND GUIDE ATTACHED BEFORE PRINTING, FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS.   This is the FTN.5 300blk suppressor by PLAboi that can be found on the sea. Technically FTN.4.5 as it uses elements of both 4 and 5. This is the queitest 300blk can I have tried and has held up so far to 1400 rounds of subsonic fire (50/50 frt use). There is hardware required for this build and it is listed in the pdf attached.  I will not be including build guide (Only extra notes) or hardware required as it is included in the guide, not following instructions will result in failure. This print should be PA6-CF or like fiber nylons or better. I will not recommend any other filaments for this print (Minus tools and jigs) make those out of what you please. Do not use without a aluminum tube on it. I recommend subsonic use only as it will last longer and you will have MUCH less issues. Who shoots 300 supers anyways?    I am not responsible for what you print, where you print it, or what you do with it. Follow all federal, state, and local laws. Print and use at your own discretion.    Extra Notes  I have printed and made 14 rolls worth of PA6-CF to date, with around 70 completed cans across primarily the FTN line from 22lr to 308, these notes are mostly from some of my failures/mistakes. PA6-CF is not cheap, learn from my failures not yours. I have not attached the printed tube option and recommend the aluminum as it is stronger and will hold up long term. I attached only the threaded inserts I have used extensively.  Wait 24 hours minimum for JB weld to set and only use JB weld 50165 (The original steel formula). Failure to JB to cure will result in failure. Do not thread the adapter in until 24 hours after expoy of tube has cured to reduce risk of supressor body cracking. Then thread in your insert ( I put JB weld on the threads of the insert as well as the ¾ 16 insert or kak muzzle device.) Then wait another 24 hours for that to cure, time is crucial for this build to be successful. Sand the inside of aluminum tube extensively to ensure good adhesion. Use more JB weld than you think you need too on supressor body, some will come out on tube instalation. This is normal. I have used the ¾ 16 adapter on the outside of the threaded insert with no issues, as some are too large to go on the inside only with JB weld on threads.  Coat the baffles, it is cheap and worth it in my testing. This is the paint I use Rust-Oleum Automotive High Heat Primer Spray, Flat Gray | Resists Heat Up to 2000 Degrees F | Durable Rust and Corrosion Protection | Ideal for Automotive Engines and More - Rustoleum High Heat Primer - Amazon.com The baffle design in this can is specifically made for subsonic 300 blackout use. Do not use 300 supers, 556, 308, or any other rifle caliber rounds. You are likely to experience cracking in the core of can and subsequently baffle strikes or premature failure. It will work, just not to the 1400 rounds I have gotten out of 300 subs.   I will not upload another rifle caliber can of any model or anything higher caliber. There is too much room for error when you get into higher pressures. If you wish to find the files/information it is out and available if you look for it.