Parametric Modular Rod - Any Length V2

Description Generates the elements you need to assemble a rod of whatever length you want. When I published V1 I didn't expect many people (any people, honestly) to actually use it, and I didn't give it the attention it deserved. Now that I've seen how it's been received, I can't let that slide any longer. So here's a version worth the download. What changed in V2. Threads are gone. Segments now join with a hexagonal press-fit pin. The thread was V1's weak point. Pins print lying flat, so their layers run along their length, and a hex joint can't twist loose the way a thread can. V1 is still up here if you need it. Read this first Segments print standing up, so keep the brim. It's what stops them toppling mid-print. Caps and pins print flat and don't need it. If you print from a customised profile, add an external brim to the segments and remove it from the caps. Bed adhesion is what makes or breaks this print. Clean the plate with soap and IPA. If adhesion has given you trouble before, a Cool Plate SuperTack is worth it. ⚠ Use the Fit Test profile to adjust the tolerance to your printer and material. Parts n rods n-1 rod-to-rod pins, marked S at both ends 2 end caps 2 cap pins, marked C and S, and shorter S goes into a rod, C goes into a cap. Customizer Stick v2 Simple: one slider, total length. Stick v2 Advanced: also rod diameter, end cap length, end cap extra radius, end cap thickness and connector tolerance. Stick v2 tolerance test: if the provided print profile for tolerance shows that the tolerance is not what you're looking for, use this script to print 2 small parts where you can configure the tolerance. Length ranges from 100 to 3000 mm. Diameter and the connector The pin scales with the rod, so the joint stays in proportion at any diameter, nothing to work out yourself. A set is only compatible with itself, though: pins from a 30 mm rod won't fit a 20 mm one. The Advanced version goes down to 15 mm. Bending strength drops sharply with diameter, so treat a thin rod as a dowel rather than a pole. Printing No supports. 0.2 mm layers · 2 walls · 10 % gyroid · rod Ø30 mm More infill or more wall loops on the pins will make them stronger, but remember, we're still talking about plastic here. Filament: Bambu Lab PLA, Jade White. Assembly Push a pin halfway into one segment, then push the next segment onto it. Treat assembled as permanent, and dry-fit first if you want to try a length. A drop of glue in the socket makes it fully permanent and slightly stiffer. Strength Much stronger than V1. I couldn't break a rod element at all, and the joint takes real force before the pin finally gives. But it's still plastic, not scaffolding, so please don't use it as a structural part. It's for rolling and storing fabric, banners, curtain rods, dowels, props. I'd like to know what you actually do with it, so post a make or leave a comment.